November 29, 2012 8:35 am
Dusting off granny’s tweeds is a rite of passage, but the bold bouclés we saw on the Spring runways may have girls skipping those closet raids in favor of scooping up something new. Karl Lagerfeld has been reinventing Coco Chanel’s signature fabric since he took over the house in 1983. This season, he showed Technicolor tweed ripe for the pretty young things who flock to his front rows (not to mention the recent string of international celebrations for the house’s Little Black Jacket exhibition). At Nina Ricci, Peter Copping gave the material a holographic treatment, whipping it up into ladylike skirtsuits. A new guard of designers embraced traditional tweed, too, and what stood out was the way they draped and manipulated the stuff—as if they were working with soft silk or crepe instead of nubby wool. New York-based up-and-comer Brandon Sun created a casual racerback column gown with a slim peplum and slouchy pockets, while Carven’s Guillaume Henry incorporated flirty cutouts into his woven frocks.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of Spring’s standout railroad stripes.