Aficionados of luxury timepieces got a shock the other day when a rare Rolex made in 1950, sold for more than four times its estimate and set a new world record. The remarkable result was achieved at Christie’s New York sale of Important Watches on Dec. 17, when a stainless steel Ref. 8171 Rolex sold for $1.145 million against a pre-sale estimate of $250,000-$350,000 after a fierce bidding war that spanned across four countries.
The Rolex, previously nicknamed the “Padellone” (“Big Frying Pan” in Italian), immediately earned a new nickname—“Sleeping Beauty”—on account of the surprise result. One of the most complicated Rolexes ever made, its main feature is a triple date and moonphase display. Only about 1000 examples were ever made, but until the Christie’s sale the model wasn’t in the same league as the Ref. 4113, an oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph made in 1942 that became the world’s most expensive Rolex ever when it sold at auction for $1.16 million in Geneva last May.
The auction was “a most memorable grand finale to the most successful year of watch auctions ever orchestrated by any auction house in history,” notes Aurel Bacs, Christie’s’ International Head of Watches. “Savvy bidders from around the world gathered to compete fiercely for a beautifully curated, intelligently estimated, and well researched selection of high-quality collectors watches.” The sale brought in a total of $12,926,175, selling 91 percent by lot and 95 percent by value.
If you’ve seen a red carpet event recently chances are good you’ve seen some of Neil Lane’s jewelry designs. Adorning the necks, fingers and ears of some of the most beautiful people in the world, Lane’s pieces are iconic for their intricate aesthetics and attention to detail. But as one of Hollywood’s hottest jewelers, he confesses he never imagined that his life would take such a glamorous turn. In an exclusive interview with JustLuxe, Lane talks about his start, his passion and all those famous A-list clients.
“I don’t come from this planet,” Lane jokes right off the bat. “So my aesthetics are really, you know, out of this world!” he laughs, immediately giving off the impression of a man in love with life. And why shouldn’t he be? When your day consists of casually selecting red carpet diamonds with the biggest celebrities, you know you’re doing something right. “I can tell you when I was a little kid I never thought one day I’d be in Hollywood designing for the most famous, glorious people in the world. That’s not something I wanted to do,” he explains.
But looking back, his childhood gave a pretty clear indication as to what would eventually be Lane’s calling in life. “Even walking around the park when I was a little kid, my mom used to have to empty out my pockets—they were all filed with colored glass,” he laughs. “So I supposed even as a kid I was fascinated with sparkle, but of course, I had no idea that one day I’d be here.” A self-confessed lover of art, Lane’s childhood hobbies quickly turned into career goals. An obsession with architecture, history, and design lead Lane around the world in pursuit of his passions. “I was going everywhere looking at anything that fascinated me—I was flying off to Paris to look at the Mona Lisa and there I began to see amazing architecture and the art nouveau movement in Paris.”
Studying art in college, he traveled back and forth from New York to Europe to absorb the different artistic cultures, and it was there that he really began to take note of the vintage designs of old world craftsmanship. “Jewelry began to have a history for me, it began to resonate,” he explains. “Jewelry began to have a reason, like a place in art history for me, and it wasn’t just decorative things, and I became really fascinated by it.”
Years of studying and collecting vintage pieces and books on jewelry, made Lane an expert on the subject, but it wasn’t until after he moved to California that he started to practice this design. His expertise of these classical European styles was rare and clearly missing from the American fashion scene. He set up shop resetting heirloom stones and passed down keepsakes that women brought to him, and gained a small following for his unique aesthetic before capturing the attention of celebrities.
Today, Lane designs for some of the biggest stars like Renee Zellweger, Reese Witherspoon and Demi Moore, but these celebrities aren’t his only clients; he loves designing for them as much as he does for every woman. “Is there a big difference between Angelina Jolie and ‘Sue Brown’?” he asks, then corrects himself. “Well yes, in some respects, but you know I’ve found when I work with people, women all have the same aesthetic, it’s about romance, it’s about beauty; they all want the same thing.” This idea of capturing the beauty of a jewel and sharing it with America instead of purely the upper echelon lead him to partner with Kay Jewelers to create the Neil Lane Bridal Collection. “I do a collection for Kay and all these years working in Hollywood I’ve been able to really hone on my aesthetics working with some of these glamorous women— that together and really wanting to share that with a much larger audience.”
Sharing his designs with women gives Lane the inspiration and passion for his work. “I love working with Angelina Jolie, I love working with Madonna. I love working with Rihanna, Katy Perry was in, I mean, there are so many people I love working with and I love designing for them,” he explains. “But I also love people coming into my shop and I’m designing their 20th anniversary ring, or 10th anniversary, or their baby present.” He goes on to talk about the thank you note he recently received from Mark Paul Gosselaar after the two designed the baby gift for his newborn. He remembers Goldie Hawn bringing in a little Kate Hudson to try on her first pieces of fine jewelry, and then when Hudson, all grown up, came back to Lane to find her engagement ring. This connection of family, love and relationships is what makes his work so satisfying.
But it’s clear that despite his immense achievements and his notoriety amongst the Hollywood elite that nothing moves him quite like engagement rings. “The magic that happens when you design a ring for someone, the magic that exists between two people, and how the jewelry has an aspect that goes from almost the physical to the spiritual,” he starts enthusiastically. “How some of the platinum and diamonds and gold can transcend a physicality to be a very emotional, romantic aspect of what it symbolizes. I think that type of transformation of what I do in a workshop and what it means to people getting the jewelry or those things that I’ve designed—I think that has been very, very significant for me in terms of success.”
Since the holidays can be one of the most popular times of the year to get engaged, Lane makes a few last minute suggestions to guys thinking of popping the question. “If you’re buying an engagement ring, it’s really important to know your girlfriend’s style. I don’t think surprising her out of the blue with something that she might not appreciate,” he pauses and laughs. “She’ll probably love you, but I think style and fashion are very, very important today in a girl’s life.” He recommends speaking with the jewelry store staff and letting them know what your girlfriend is like, who she admires, what she wears, what she does—and there’s always the option of bringing someone along. “You can take her mom, you can take her best girlfriend, you can take your potential finance window shopping—ask her ‘what do you like?’—she’ll let you know.”
As a noted timepiece specialist and the founder of Analog/Shift, a top-drawer boutique offering a curated selection of vintage watches for discerning collectors, James Lamdin spends his days buying, selling and brokering some of the most exceptional timepieces in the world. Lamdin, who drives a classic 1967 Porsche 912, has an impressive collection in his own right, of course.
Lamdins team has a cumulative 40 years of wristwatch-collecting experience. Each month they offer a small, carefully assembled collection of beautiful watches from highly desirable brands like Rolex, Omega, Doxa and Heuer, as well as some lesser known and harder to find models. Each has been thoroughly checked over by a professional watchmaker and is ready to wear.
Vintage wristwatch values have been on the rise since the early 2000s, and records have been set and broken nearly every year at prestigious auction houses in the United States, Europe and Asia. While Lamdin generally recommends buying wristwatches for enjoyment rather than purely as investments (after all, you can wear them while they appreciate), he does offer advice for speculating within the luxury timepiece market; and his recommendations for investment pieces arent purely of the vintage nature.
Here are his top five recommendations for modern luxury watches sure to bring enhanced returns in the near future.And surprisenot a single one of them is a Rolex or Patek Philippe:
F.P. Journe is perhaps the most respected of the independent watchmakers.With complete vertical integration and an unmistakable aesthetic, the young brand has an impressive story and an even more impressive following.
Collectors and timepiece enthusiasts, captivated by the designs and in-house movements, have embraced the brand, leading to some very strong secondary market and auction returns. Despite production of roughly only a thousand pieces a year, there are 9 F.P. Journe Boutiques worldwide; a testament to their popularity.
This past year saw the launch of the Chronometr Optimum; a non-complicated time-only piece finished in a selection of precious metal cases, which purports to be the most accurate mechanical timepiece ever made.Journes Tourbillons and Repeaters are equally impressive, but the efficient simplicity of the Optimum stands out in the line up as a long-term winner.From $86,400.
German watch brand A. Lange & Shne is quite simply the most impressive manufacturer outside of Switzerland.Revived in the early 1990s after a forty-year closure, the brand cemented itself among the greats of haute horology in no time.
Their distinctly German designs, superior hand-made quality, and precious metal cases are sure-bets for collectors, and many pre-owned examples have sold for many times their original prices just a few years after originally retailed.
A favorite in their current line up, the Saxonia Annual Calendar in Platinum is a stunning complicated piece in a relatively small case size.At 38mm, it’s dimensions remain much more practical for daily wear than other annual calendars on the market, and as sizing trends continue to move towards smaller, thinner pieces, the Saxonia comes at the right time.It is also priced better than any of its competitors at $58,400.
They say what is old will be new again, and with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, theyd be right.Originally conceived as a reversible watch for polo players who didnt want their wristwatches damaged on the field, the Reverso has become a staple of mens wristwear since its inception in the 1930s.
Launched in 2011, the Tribute to 1931 models feature vintage-inspired hands and dials, simple manual-winding movements, and an ultra-slim case design.Regular production models are priced around $8,000, and are an excellent timepiece investment any day.Furthermore, they are truly great pieces for heirloom purposes, with a steel backside perfect for engraving.
Your best investment would be on one of the 200 US Limited Edition versions made in 2011/2012 which came complete with a very rare and special shell cordovan strap made by the legendary Argentine bootmaker Casa Fagliano.Due to its rarity, the strap alone could be worth thousands in the next few years. Long since sold out, there are only a few available on the pre-owned market.If you find one, dont hesitate.
Haute Horology doesnt always come with a giant price tag.Case in pointthe MIH Watch. Developed by the master watchmakers behind the Muse International dHorlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, this unique timepiece is a masterwork of minimal design, featuring an annual calendar complication based on an industry-standard Valjoux chronograph movement. This is the horological equivalent of building a functional lunar module out of a Volvo S60.
Priced new at approximately $6,579 (6000CHF), the MIH Watch has a two-year waiting list to go along with it, and they are rarely sold privately. Although the museum has not announced any discontinuation of the model, nothing this good lasts forever, and once they go out of production they will surely skyrocket in value. In the meantime, they are exceptionally well-crafted, unique timepieces with a great story that you could wear every day.
Few sports watches are regarded with such universal acclaim as the original Royal Oak. Originally launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the worlds first true luxury sport watch. Penned by famous watch designer Gerald Genta, it featured a signature integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel design modeled after the portholes on the battleship HMS Royal Oak. In the past decade, the Royal Oak line has grown as much in complexity and diversity as the watches themselves have grown in size.The bulk of the Offshore lineup is fat and tastelesscertainly not destined to become classics in the traditional sense.
Fortunately for us, the original two-hand Jumbo models (reference 15202ST) remain in production, and with a special 40th Anniversary edition launched last year, the Genta masterpiece is sure to remain an icon amongst icons.Although not technically a Limited Edition, production and distribution from AP is minimal, and finding one new through an Authorized Dealer can take some doing.Pre-owned models have recently commanded nearly as much as MSRP ($22,500) at auction. Good signs for future collectability indeed.
accessories being referred to as treasures? Nowadays we have plenty of beautiful rings, necklaces and bracelets, but dont you think its about time that we brought true gems back into our lives? Internationally acclaimed jewelry designer, Bina Goenka, certainly does, and her collection of timeless and dramatic jewels are sure to have you feeling just as elegant as each one of her dazzling items.
With an emphasis on minimalist creations that are handmade as opposed to the current status quo of mass-produced items, Bina Goenka brings a certain authenticity to her collection that we rarely see these days. With over 15 years of experience in jewelry design and manufacturing, Bina is a true craftsman with a clear vision. All of her pieces exude style and class, all the while maintaining uniquely artistic elements.
Of her line, Bina explains, I design for the confident woman who knows what she wants. She is never a fashion victim; rather, a trendsetter. Her jewelry never shouts; just quietly underlines her unique personality and complements her lifestyle.
Bina Goenka constructs beautiful items that not only add flare to any outfit, but also act as stunning heirloom pieces capable of withstanding the test of time. Inspired by nature, her line incorporates many different aesthetics and forms that you would find by simply looking outdoors. Her work features an array of bespoke pieces that showcase her incredible design range, from gorgeous pendants, intricate chokers, signature bracelets, and even one-of-a kind engagement and wedding bands.
Each one of Bina Goenkas ultra-luxurious and indulgent treasures display her undeniable artistic flair and dedication to creating extraordinary items. The Bina Goenka brand is available internationally including in Europe, the Middle East and India, and prices for these masterful designs range from 3,000 to 125,000 (approximately $4,820 to $200,852.)
There are any of a number of ways an established watchmaker can make its luxury timepieces more alluring to those of us who see the natural connection between watches and cars. He can craft dials out of carbon fiber, straps of rubber with tire-tread patterns, and bezels out of the same ceramics used for racing brakes. He can sponsor motor racing series or forge relationships with celebrated automakers. But every once in a while, a watchmaker comes along who quite simply has octane pumping through his veins. Officine Autodromo is one such watchmaker.
The small outfit launched only a year ago with an artfully simple design that took its inspiration from the tachometers on classic Italian automobiles and its model names from Italian racing circuits. The oversized stainless steel lug-less case packs a Swiss-made Rhonda quartz movement and is affixed to the wrist with a simple perforated leather strap. Six months later Autodromo followed up with a chronograph version of the Vallelunga that offers the same design as the launch collection but with the added functionality of a lap timer.
Now the brand brainchild of an accomplished designer, consummate automotive enthusiast and classic Alfa Romeo driver has released its new model. Called the Monoposto, it takes its name from the Italian word for single-seater formula racing cars. The Monoposto features an all-new design distinct from the previous line, but is also the brand’s first mechanical movement. Committed to offering enthusiasts quality timepieces at accessible prices, however, Autodromo went with a Japanese-made Miyota 821A movement instead of a pricier Swiss mechanism.
What really makes the Monoposto unique, however, is its design. Available with a matte silver or black dial, the timepiece is dominated by the flourish of a red stripe across its 40mm domed crystal, emulating the redline that 1950s mechanics would paint on the rev-counters of post-war grand prix racing cars to help the driver avoid blowing out the engine in an era before electronic controls kept such matters in check. The 43mm polished stainless steel case features an exhibition caseback and is fastened with a full-grain leather strap, simply stitched and fitted with a polished roller buckle inspired by the hood straps on vintage racing cars.
What you won’t find on any of Autodromo’s watches, however, is carbon fiber or an automaker’s logo just an elegant reminder of classic automobiles of a bygone era. Nor will you expect to pay for such frivolity, either: eschewing traditional distribution channels, Autodromo timepieces are available directly from the manufacturer, with prices ranging from $465 for the Brescia, through $550 for the Vallelunga Chronograph, to $875 for the Monoposto. Only 500 examples of the latter will be offered.
There are few races quite as grueling as the Dakar Rally. Unlike most races or rallies that revolve around one type of vehicle, the Dakar Rally, for which
brand Edox is an official supplier, includes cars, trucks and motorcycles. In all, over 700 entries strive for glory and the ultimate prize in rally-raid competition.
Previously held for decades in northern Africa, the arduous desert cross-country race moved a few years ago to South America due to security concerns following repeated threats from terrorist organizations. And with this year’s rally coming up, Edox has released this limited-edition timepiece.
Much like how Hublot is to Formula One, Blancpain is to European GT racing, Ritmo Mundo is to IndyCar and Tissot is to NASCAR, Edox is not only the official timekeeper for the World Rally Championship, but also for the Dakar Rally.
Its latest release is the Chronodakar Limited Edition, of which only 200 examples will be made. Its Ronda 5021.D-based chronograph movement is housed inside a 45mm case of 316L-grade stainless steel coated in black PVD. The chronograph timing functions are operated by Start and Stop buttons, the inner bezel is a carbon-fiber ring, and the piece is affixed to the wrist by a rubber strap imprinted with an off-road tire tread, much like Chopard’s vintage-tire strap or Pirelli’s more modern rubber version, only with a decidedly more rugged appearance.
The second in a series, the new Chronodakar goes on sale towards the end of the year at authorized agents worldwide for about $2,300 a piece, at current exchange rate.
There are few races quite as grueling as the Dakar Rally. Unlike most races or rallies that revolve around one type of vehicle, the Dakar Rally, for which
brand Edox is an official supplier, includes cars, trucks and motorcycles. In all, over 700 entries strive for glory and the ultimate prize in rally-raid competition.
Previously held for decades in northern Africa, the arduous desert cross-country race moved a few years ago to South America due to security concerns following repeated threats from terrorist organizations. And with this year’s rally coming up, Edox has released this limited-edition timepiece.
Much like how Hublot is to Formula One, Blancpain is to European GT racing, Ritmo Mundo is to IndyCar and Tissot is to NASCAR, Edox is not only the official timekeeper for the World Rally Championship, but also for the Dakar Rally.
Its latest release is the Chronodakar Limited Edition, of which only 200 examples will be made. Its Ronda 5021.D-based chronograph movement is housed inside a 45mm case of 316L-grade stainless steel coated in black PVD. The chronograph timing functions are operated by Start and Stop buttons, the inner bezel is a carbon-fiber ring, and the piece is affixed to the wrist by a rubber strap imprinted with an off-road tire tread, much like Chopard’s vintage-tire strap or Pirelli’s more modern rubber version, only with a decidedly more rugged appearance.
The second in a series, the new Chronodakar goes on sale towards the end of the year at authorized agents worldwide for about $2,300 a piece, at current exchange rate.
tend to focus mainly on the mens market, when time is of the essence to everyone gender aside. While theres a seemingly endless database of luxury timepieces for men to choose from, the options are not as wide for women. That said, if youre on the hunt for a high-end womens watch for either yourself or a special lady friend, there are only a few labels you should look towards to get the same quality that is found in those mens pieces that look like they should be behind glass at a museum at all times. I searched high and low for those timepieces, and found the best of the best womens luxury watches over $10,000.
Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Special Edition Watches The classic Lady Diver watches by Ulysse Nardin feature steel and rubber, and at around $6,600, are not quite up to par with their special edition watches in the same line. For $15,000 and up you can get on-trend by adding your favorite color in a bright hue. I dont know about you, but Im totally on board with luxury brands adding color to their products, straying away from the idea that luxe objects need to exude seriousness. High-end can be fun, too, and I think that including a pop of color adds a personal touch to your luxury item, as well. Ulysse Nardins Lady Diver watches come in purple, red, blue, and yellow. $15,000 will get you a 40 mm stainless steel case with colored bezel and a mother of pearl dial set with diamonds and sapphire crystals. If you want to step it up a notch, just replace the stainless steel case for rose gold for around $20,000. Both styles feature self-winding movement, an exclusive rubber bracelet in your favorite hue, and a deployant clasp. Photo Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Harry Winston Ocean Lady Zalium Watch The next womens luxury watch comes from a veteran in the business: Harry Winston. The labels Ocean Lady Zalium Watchs rubber band gives it a sporty look; however its diamond-studded dial brings it to a luxe level. Zanium, a blend of zirconium and aluminum, is a material that is signature to the Harry Winston brand, and is said to be hypo-allergenic and resistant to corrosion. It also has the added perk of being a lightweight metal; however I predict that the 36 mm cases two rows of diamonds and sapphire crystal case-back counteract that feature. The ladies chronograph sells for upwards of $28,000, and has an automatic movement with a Swiss quartz movement on the inside that results in just the time and minutes being outwardly displayed. Photo Courtesy of Harry Winston
Girard-Perregaux Cats Eye Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie Watch If diamonds are your thing, the Cats Eye Tourbillon by Girard-Perregaux is for you. This luxury watch sports a feminine design that has a narrow, oval-shaped face that is characteristic of the collection. The entirety of the case and face are set with baguette-cut diamonds 287 of them to be exact, which amount to almost 20 carats. Girard-Perregaux doesnt use just any old diamond over 700 hours of work were put into the strict selection, precise cutting, adjustment, and setting of every stone to make this intricate timepiece. Even the cases crown is set with twelve more baguette-cut diamonds and adorned with a special rose-cut diamond. Its no wonder the price for this impressive haute joaillerie watch is $490,000. Photo Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
DeLaneau Open Magic Watch The Open Magic Watch comes from a label that we havent covered before, however this watch certainly makes its presence known. DeLaneau calls itself the jeweler of watches, and from the looks of the Open Magic model, Id have to agree. The slender, bracelet-like watch features a gold coil that connects to a satin strap. Its Bell poque-style case features up to 5 carats of diamonds, (depending on the style) that protects a black onyx and mother of pearl dial. At an astounding $1.5 million, DeLaneaus Open Magic Watchs dauphine-style hands and diamond hour markers complete its luxe look. Photo Courtesy of DeLaneau
Hublot Big Bang Ladies Watch The priciest model on our list is brought to you by Hublot, a pillar brand in the luxury watch industry. The Big Bang style was first introduced in the form of a mens watch, which gained copious amounts of attention for its overwhelming diamond-studded make. The brands version for women is just as impressive, with a more delicate touch. The Hublot Big Bang Ladies watch made its debut earlier this year at BASELWORLD in Switzerland. The bejeweled timepiece has an astounding 1,282 diamonds (thats more than 300 carats-worth) and, at $5 million, is Hublots most expensive timepiece to date. Photo Courtesy of Hublot
