The one blog that caused a seismic shift the fashion’s power pantheon is The Sartorialist. It was founded in 2005 by photographer Scott Schuman who started taking snaps of guys on street corners, which literally inspired hundreds of copy cat street-style blogs since.
In 2007 Time magazine noted Schuman in the world’s top 100 designer influencers. The Sartorialist is as good if not better than any fashion magazine for inspiration on how to dress. Although the likes of Bill Cunningham existed before Schuman, The Sartorialist has captured street-style in a modern, instant way.
His knack for capturing the world’s most stylish men is inspiring. He lives in New York with girlfriend and fellow blogger Garance Dore, and the two have become a superpower couple in fashion’s new world order.
“I think the biggest difference is that I try to shoot it from the point of view of someone who loves fashion. I don’t talk about brands or people but just shoot the people,” he tells me by phone from New York. “In the past there was one direction, magazines told you what you thought. There was no way to have a conversation. Fashion writers had a lot of power. When I grew up there was no Style.com, no runway photos, no collection magazines. Just fashion magazines.
No video or pictures so you had to take their word for it. The tricky part now for fashion writers is that they have to tell us what they think after we all have already seen live streams with the ability to react and give our opinions already.
We’re able to have a discussion about it.”
Is the printed magazine dead?
“Magazines will take on a more romantic and crafted feel with the internet being much more commercial. They will have to make the printed document more special and the idea of print will become more romantic. Like Carine’s new magazine – it’s more like a book. They’ll become more elevated. The only tricky thing is that looking between a photo printed and online, the vibrancy online is like looking at images on a light box – the images glow.”
What should every modern man have in his wardrobe?
“A great grey or blue suit dressed up or dressed down. Great pair of jeans your girlfriend, or boyfriend, likes. A great pair of brown leather shoes. A great cardigan. A great blue shirt, oxford or striped. A great watch.
Are there any absolute rules when it comes to good style? “Best to understand your own style. Spend your money in your wardrobe where you need more variation.”
Favourite destination: “I love going to Milan: you can be in the mountains or beach really quick.”
Favourite hotel: “Westin Excelsior in Florence, Fasano in Rio, Thoumieux in Paris.”
Favourite city: New York.
Airline: “Whichever the client is paying business class for!”
Luggage: “Very non-descript. Whatever looks like it won’t get stolen. If I could buy nice luggage I would buy WANT Les Essentiels.”
Style icons: “Fred Astaire always looked amazing, his clothes fitted so beautifully and he was able to move in those clothes. Cary Grant too looked great but also very physical in his clothes. They wore clothes with such ease, which we don’t often see anymore.
Artist: “Manet, Chuck Close, I’m reading now about Matisse. John Singer Sargent. I love finding local photography bookstores in every city I visit.”
Architect: “Frank Lloyd Wright, I respect his thorough vision.”
Fashion designer: “It’s a tie between Dries Van Noten, Prada and Marc Jacobs.”
Cuisine: “I like Mexican food and there’s so much good choice in New York.”
Jeans: “3×1 fit me the best. They do made-to-measure, which is great and you can choose your own buttons. I used to wear a lot of APC.”
Watch: Rolex Oyster.
Sunglasses: Ray-Ban aviators
Underwear: boxers or briefs? Boxers.
Trainers: “Common Projects sneakers and Nike. Valentino sneakers from their spring collection in camouflage.”
Wallet: Prada bill-fold.
Moisturiser: “Don’t use a whole lot.”
Soap: “Whatever’s in the hotel or bathroom.”
Perfume: “Santa Maria Novella make amazing fragrance. Vitiver, sandalwood. Spanish leather . . . I have about 10 of these.”
Toothpaste: “Whatever my girlfriend buys.”
Shops: “I love Uniqlo, Club Monaco. I shop all over. I love a high-low mix.”
Gadget: “My camera. Canon 5D Mark III, iPhone 4, and laptop.”
By Andrew Glenn